Spring Bulbs

It is WAY to early to plant spring bulbs, but if there are specific varieties of flowers you want to plant, consider ordering them soon.

Last year, much to my grandmother's chagrin, I went to the local Home Depot a bought some standard varieties. They turned out okay, and I fell in love, with this little beauty:

Photo from http://www.bluestoneperennials.com

Get Dressed

This is a new Japanese Maple, planted this summer. You can see the mulched border in the left of the photo, and the mulch around the Sycamore in the center.

Fall is a perfect time to top dress any mulch you have in your landscape. Take advantage of a cool day to cross this chore off your list.

I have A LOT of mulch in my landscape. I have a mulched border around my back yard and two mulched beds in the front. Likewise, I have a mulch ring around my trees.

Mulch holds moisture and keeps weeds down, naturally. It is a perfect way to cut down on mowing and watering needs in your lawn, while still creating an inviting landscape. I have planted several shrubs in my border and even added some trees last spring.

If you haven't used mulch in your landscape before, consider doing so now. You won't regret it.

(When mulching around trees, be sure to avoid piling mulch around the trunk. This can lead to rotting.)

Pruning Roses

Photo from: http://www.tamu.edu

I have a few knockout roses that are struggling right now. Part of the reason, is that they need to be deadheaded. (I know, I know, nurseries say you do not need to deadhead knockout roses, but I really think it encourages blooming!)

I use a pair of hand pruners to cut the spent bloom back to the first set of five leaves. (Follow the stem from the bloom and you will first encounter one or two sets of three leaves, wait until you reach the first set of five to make your cut.)

The second thing my roses likely need is fertilizer. I am going to put down a slow-release fertilizer this spring to see how it affects next year's growing season.

All-in-all if you are looking for a nice flowering shrub, it doesn't get any easier than knockout roses.

Seeding Reminder

Don't forget, if you are planning to seed Fescue or Bluegrass lawns, fall is the time.

Seed between Labor Day and October 15 for best results. Once you have put the seed down, water daily for 3 weeks. If the seed dries out, you won't get the results you want.

Basil

Photo from: www.tastefulgarden.com

Right up there with garlic, I have heard a lot of great things about home-grown basil. Basil is great for Italian flavors, and a main ingredient in Pesto.

I think the best plan of attack for growing basil in the Midwest is to grow it indoors in pots. To start, make sure your pot will get good drainage. A few pebbles in the bottom of the pot should do the trick.

Once you have planted the basil, thin out weaker plants. Pinch off any flowers that bloom to preserve the flavor of the plant and stimulate more leaf growth.

When watering, try to avoid getting water on the leaves. Fertilize once a month.

Basil is a pick and come again crop. It is best to pick a few leaves off a number of plants than picking all the leaves off one plant. Harvest the top most leaves first.

Garlic

Photo from i.ehow.com

I keep hearing about home grown garlic. Things along the lines of, "Once you've tasted home grown garlic, you'll never go back!"

Sounds great to me!

I have been pondering planting a fall crop this October, after the first frost. Apparently, you plant each clove 1 inch deep and 4 inches apart. Then, they will grow throughout the winter and be ready to harvest in early spring, once the leaves start to turn brown.

Garlic won't survive harsh winters, but can also be planted in the spring.

Elephant Ears

I planted my first elephant ears this spring, and it's official--I'm in love.

The large, green leaves bring a welcome tropical feel to this Midwest prairie. The leaves on my elephant ears are a light green, although my research of black-leafed cultivars has intrigued me. I may have to give "Black Magic" or "Jet Black Wonder" a try next year.

Zones higher than 8 can treat the plant as a perennial. Those of us in Zones 5-6, however, will have to dig them up every fall so they can overwinter indoors.

Garden Plans

Photo from: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ceiling/1041719721/

If you have a big, open space you want to convert to landscape beds, check out Better Homes and Gardens. They have a free garden design application on their web site. It is great for planning new landscape, or just fun to play around in for awhile.

You can see my garden here: http://planagarden.bhg.com/planagarden/index.php

Find some time to check it out!

Watch Out For Grubs

Photo from: http://forages.oregonstate.edu/index.cfm

Grubs can devastate your lawn. These little, white larvae feed on grass roots, and, in large numbers can do a lot of damage.

Signs of grub damage aren't unique--you'll notice a brown spot in your lawn. However, it is important to take a closer look. If you can pull up the grass like a piece of carpet, you have grub damage. (The presence of birds or other small animals digging in your lawn may also indicate a grub problem.)

Grubs are fairly easy to control with a lawn protection product available at your local garden center.

Letting them run their course is risky, because you will likely end up reseeding much of your lawn. (A very labor-intensive, and sometimes costly, process.)

Water!

Photo From: http://home.howstuffworks.com

August in the Midwest is HOT! This intense heat, coupled with very little rainfall, is tough on our cool-season lawns (especially in the transition zone).

It is imperative that we water regularly during dry periods, if we want our lawns to keep growing. (The alternative is not to water and let the lawn go dormant.)

Your lawn needs roughly 1" of water every 2 to 3 days when temperatures are above 90 degrees. (You can use a rain gauge or an empty tuna can to ensure you are watering enough.)

As a general rule, anytime your lawn starts to look "dull" or take on a bluish tint, it is time to water.

Watering is certainly an easier task for those with an automatic system. For the rest of us, it is worth the effort to drag out a hose and sprinkler to make sure we keep our lawn in good shape.

If we can all hold on another 6 weeks, we should see relief from the heat and our lawns will have a chance to shine for another month or two before they go dormant for winter.

Scorched Pear Trees?

Photo from: http://wrir4.ucdavis.edu/

If twigs on your pear or apple trees look burned or scorched, chances are the trees are suffering from a fungal disease known as fire blight.

Fire blight is a difficult to control fungal disease that popped up in more trees than normal this year because of above average rainfall this spring and summer. The best way to get rid of fire blight is through very careful pruning. (In the case of large infestations, where large portions of the tree are infected, control through pruning may not be possible.)

You will have to sterilize pruning equipment between every cut with a 10% bleach or 25% alcohol solution. Make your pruning cut 10 to 12 inches below the discolored area of the branch. Because the bacteria are so easily transmitted, care should be taken in disposing of infected plant material. Either burn or discard in the trash. Do not leave infected material where the bacteria might be spread to surrounding bushes or trees.

Getting Antsy?

Photo from: http://www.ent.uga.edu/

Carpenter ants are frequently seen crawling in and out of trees (Pin Oaks seem to be a favorite).

These little critters are fairly difficult to treat. You have to kill the Queen in order to entirely rid yourself of an infestation. Using ant bait, available at local hardware stores, is a good place to start. The idea is that ants are attracted to the bait, and then carry it back to their friends in the tree.

Carpenter ants are a secondary tree problem, as they only eat dead wood and do not damage the tree. However, the presence of the ants warrants a closer look at your tree for a more serious (primary) problem.

There is a chance that the ants will migrate to your house (again eating dead, rotting wood), so it is better to manage the problem than to let it go.

Reuse Soda Cans

Yesterday's post showed you how to create a scoop out of an old milk jug. Today's tip is just as handy. Instead of recycling all of your old aluminum cans, rinse them out and place them in the bottom of large planters to take up some of the space. They will provide extra drainage capacity and you'll need less potting soil!