We've Moved

Crape Myrtle. My backyard, last summer. We're waiting to see how it does this year.

We have moved our blog to our main web site. You can continue to learn landscape tips and tricks at www.ryanlawn.com.

We have a few more adjustments to make in the next few days, including enabling RSS Subscriptions. Be sure to visit the week of June 28 as we celebrate our new blog design and Facebook page with a virtual open house, complete with daily door prizes.

Hope to see you soon!

P.S. My plants are LOVING all of the rain we have been getting.

Lawn Brown Spots

I mentioned earlier this week that all the rain may lead to lawn disease when the weather warms up. This weekend Kansas City is supposed to be a toasty 87 degrees. This means we may see a flare up in lawn disease. (Warm nights + moisture = a breeding ground for fungus.)

Brown Patch, the most common Fescue lawn disease, causes thin patches of light brown grass that are roughly circular in shape. Sometimes, the disease skips the circular phase and presents as large, thin, brown areas. To determine if disease is causing your brown spots, look at an individual leaf blade for lesions.

This, my friends, is what the lesions look like.
I know, because this came from the lawn of yours truly.

Ryan Lawn & Tree can take care of your lawn disease. Request a free estimate. (We can also prevent disease.)

Bermuda Lawns Slow Coming Out of Dormancy

Weather in the Kansas City Metro has been hard on Bermuda lawns. The cold, long winter led to more than normal winter kill, and the cool, wet spring is keeping them from greening up on time.

Winter kill occurs when large areas of grass die off during the winter due to low temperatures, too little precipitation, or excessive foot traffic. It is very common in Kansas City, because we are in the Transition Zone. (This simply means we are on the border of areas where warm-season grasses, like Bermuda, and cool-season grasses, like Fescue, thrive.)

Because temperatures have been milder than usual, and we have had more rainfall than normal, Bermuda lawns have also been slow to break dormancy. This means the grass is still brown, rather than the deep green we're used to seeing this time of year.

Rain and Your Lawn

Photo from Galyna Andrushko - Fotolia.com

We have been getting a ton of rain in the Kansas City Metro area recently. Initially, I was grateful to skip a day of watering my container plants; then I started to worry they were getting a little too wet.

Containers aside, what does all of this rain mean for our Fescue lawns?

Because the weather is cool and the rain has stopped for now, it may simply mean we get to enjoy our lush, green spring lawns free from drought or heat stress. However, yards with drainage problems or standing water can pose a threat. Waterlogged soil has less oxygen available for plant roots and may lead to wet wilt, a fairly rare condition.

Another possible complication concerns temperatures. If they heat up too soon, it will make our currently wet lawns more susceptible to fungal disease. These diseases can potential kill grass, especially in Fescue lawns planted in the last two years.

For now, though, I think we can safely enjoy the new life that the rain has brought forth. If conditions change, you know I'll keep you posted.

Thick Lawns Prevent Weeds

Thick, healthy lawns have fewer weeds. Why is this? The density and health of the grass will out-compete weeds for water and vital nutrients.

To test this idea, find a thick healthy lawn and walk along the driveway and sidewalk. These areas, where the turf is ending and not as thick, may have a weed or two. Now, walk in the lawn - no weeds. Likewise, look at thinner, unfertilized lawns. You will find weeds all over. Compare this to the thick lawn.

Of course, it is possible the thick lawn owner has used something to kill the weeds. However, we all know how fast weeds pop up, so the likelihood that the thick lawn is only weed-free because of weed control is slim.

Do you have thoughts about this? Leave a comment below.

Pretty Green Lawn

A RYAN customer in Gardner, KS, sent me this picture of his back lawn:

Can you tell where his lawn ends and his neighbor's begins?

Special thanks to Tyson for sharing this photo. I would love to show off your lawn, too. Send a picture to tara patty at ryan lawn dot com with your city, and a statement about why you love your lawn.

"Neon" Grass in Your Lawn

Poa Annua (Annual Bluegrass) If you look closely, you can compare its color
to the darker grass in the background.

Two types of bluegrass, poa trivialis and poa annua (Annual Bluegrass) will appear in your lawn as neon green patches of grass in the spring. If you have a Fescue lawn, these grasses are generally regarded as weeds.

Annual Bluegrass is an annual. It will take away from the uniform color of your lawn in the spring, but will die during our hot summer. You can apply a preemergent in mid-August to prevent the grass from coming back next year.

Poa trivialis is a perennial. It is more "neon" than the annual version and tends to grow a little faster than the grass in your lawn. Because this grass is perennial, the only sure way to get rid of it is to kill out your lawn in July and reseed. Weigh your tolerance for the plant with the labor intensive project of reseeding to decide if this option is right for you.

*Poa annua and poa trivialis are very similar. The seeds on poa annua alternate, while the seeds on poa trivialis are directly opposite one another.

Prevent Crabgrass Today

You can avoid this by applying a preemergent to your lawn this spring.

If you time in the next week or two to put down a preemergent, you will be able to radically reduce the crabgrass in your yard this growing season.

At RYAN, use a preemergent + fertilizer in the early spring to help lawns greenup and to prevent annual, grassy weeds like crabgrass and foxtail. Your local garden center will have a product to fill this bill, or, you can request a free estimate from RYAN.

If you have seeded any areas this spring, skip the preemergent in those places.

Brown Spots in Bermuda Lawns?

(This one is for those of you who prefer warm season grasses.)

Every spring, some Bermuda lawns (especially those planted with hybrid varieties) are dotted with brown areas. This is the result of Spring Dead Spot (SDS).

Young Bermuda lawns (less than 3 years) have some resistance to the condition, and these lawns are affected much less than older, established lawns.

Even though symptoms of SDS show up in the spring, the disease starts in the fall when cool, wet conditions are common. The brown spots are often the size of dinner plates, but will run together resulting in large, irregular dead areas.

What can you do?
It is difficult to control spring dead spot, although keeping thatch in check through regular aerations may aid in prevention.

Giving Turfgrass Extra Space

We've discussed aerating before, but it is the time of year for questions about aerating to start popping up.

Why Aerate?
In short, aerating opens up soil for better air and nutrient movement.

What is an Aeration?
During an aeration, a machine pulls cores from the lawn and deposits them on top of the soil. (These cores break down readily, so there is no reason to rake.)

Should you Aerate?
Lawns with heavy clay soil are especially susceptible to compaction and should be aerated on a regular schedule. Likewise, if you cut a square in the lawn at least 6 inches deep, and the roots of your grass only extend 1-2 inches, it is time to aerate.

When should you Aerate?
Bluegrass and Fescue lawns are aerated in the early spring or in the fall. Bermuda and Zoysia lawns are aerated from late May to July. (Basically, the best time to aerate is when the grass is actively growing.)

Dirt "Tunnels" in Your Lawn?

A Ryan Lawn & Tree turf manager points out vole damage in Kansas City.

We have gotten quite a few calls from homeowners in the area who have bare "tunnels" in their lawns.

Most likely, this is vole damage. Voles, closely related to field mice, cause more damage in winters where there is snow on the ground a lot of the time (we've discussed the snow that never seemed to end this year).

During these chilly, wet winters, the voles create meandering tunnels in the snow, on top of the lawn. Because it takes a lot of energy to build these snow tunnels, the voles run the same path over, and over, and over. As a result, they wear a path in the lawn and kill the grass.

Take a look around the hard surfaces in your landscape - next to a sidewalk or driveway. Voles will make their nest beneath these surfaces. If you want to rid yourself of these pests, stick a bait station under your driveway in the vole nest (if you can find it). (Be careful, these bait stations can be harmful to pets.)

If you have some bluegrass in your lawn, the bare areas should fill in this April or May. You can also seed this bare spots sometime in the next few weeks.

*The difference between mole and vole damage? Moles actually tunnel beneath the grass creating raised mounds. Voles travel on top of the grass, creating worn paths.

Questions, Comments, Tips?

As we get geared up for spring and lawn season, I wanted to remind you all that I welcome your questions, comments, tips and tricks regarding all things lawn, tree, gardening, etc.

I would love to hear some of your thoughts on these subjects. Moreover, I would LOVE to see pictures of what you are doing. Remember Rachel's backyard improvement project?

I think we can all benefit from hearing from the rest of the group (and seeing your triumphs!).

'Tis the season for Snow Mold

With Gary Lezak ushering in 2010 with plenty of snow in the Kansas City area, we have been presented conditions for a disease called Gray Snow Mold on cool-season lawns. Typically, our winters are not as conducive for this disease, but this year seems to be an exception and we have received plenty of calls of concern. As areas of snow cover begin to melt, you may notice some tan, matted areas on your lawn, often times with an oily appearance. These spots are typically circular in shape and about 6-12" in diameter.

Fortunately, this disease is normally an aesthetic problem on mature stands of grass, however, immature seedlings may be killed, making reseeding necessary. To aid in recovery of mature stands, rake the affected areas and remove the debris. Occasionally seeding may be required here as well. I have attached a link from Penn State University with a slide show of pictures that you can reference, and an additional link from Purdue University with an in depth article about the disease if you would like to know more.

If you think you may have the disease and would like an additional opinion, please call your Ryan Pro today.

Josh Chabon
Turf Manager
Ryan Lawn and Tree

Winter Storm Coming...

Or so I hear on the news. So far, we haven't been hit very hard. I went out to my car late this morning to get some change and it was wet, but not icy.

If we do get some major snowfall tonight and tomorrow, you may salt your driveway. If you decide to use deicing products, only use as much as you need. Over applying can cause damage to your lawn and ornamentals.

Mow Fescue and Bluegrass short at Thanksgiving

Photo from Flickr

If you have a Fescue or Bluegrass lawn, be sure to mow it short (1 1/2 - 2 inches) around Thanksgiving. If it is still growing, mow it again before Christmas so that it overwinters at 1 1/2 - 2 inches.

These mowings ensure the lawn overwinters well.

Leaves Falling Down

Leaves are starting to fall and gather on our lawns - don't forget to rake them up to protect your grass (allowing leaves to sit in piles on the grass will smother the grass causing portions to die out).

If you are hitting a dead end about how to make the project go faster, try this - rake the leaves onto a tarp and THEN bag or mulch them.

Do any of you have leaf-raking tips? Send them to tara patty at ryan lawn dot com.

Green | Environmental Conference

Johnson County Community College and Ryan Lawn & Tree are sponsoring an environmental conference in January 2010. Speakers from around the country will be on hand to discuss the affect of lawn and landscape maintenance practices on water quality.

For more information, visit www.ryanlawn.com/green.

If you have an opinion about our environment, I invite you to attend. The event will feature an open forum before lunch to allow attendees the chance to discuss environmental issues.

E-mail me at tarapatty at ryanlawn dot com for more information.

You've Seeded, Now What?

If you've recently seeded your lawn, there are certain care practices that will ensure a good stand of grass.

Watering:
The most important is watering. Be sure to keep the ground continually moist the first 3 weeks after seeding. After that, water every other day until you mow the first time. After that, just make sure your lawn gets 1 inch of water per week.

Mowing:
Mow your new grass once it has reached a height of 2-3 inches.

Fertilizing:
You put down a starter fertilizer with your seed. Consider fertilizing again 4-6 weeks after seeding for the best lawn next spring.

Weeds:
The processes involved in seeding churn the soil, which means weed seeds that were laying low are disturbed and may germinate. This is normal. If you want to treat, wait until you have mowed your new grass 2-3 times.

I hope this answers some of your questions about what to do once new grass seed is in the ground. If you have additional questions, send them to tarapatty at ryanlawn dot com.

'Shrooms in the Lawn

Photo from Flickr.

Mushrooms are not a threat to your lawn, but when environmental conditions are right, they may pop up from time to time.

They usually won't stick around long, but to keep up appearances, you can kick them over.

Mushrooms have popped up on this blog a lot lately. Just to recap: Mushrooms in your lawn are okay. Mushrooms on your tree should be checked out by a professional.

Suspicious Mounds in Your Lawn

Photo Credit: A co-worker of Jim Sullivan, the author of the humorous blog post referenced below.

Late summer is when Cicada Killer Wasps emerge from their underground burrows to feed on, well, cicadas, naturally.

When they burrow out, they leave a six to eight inch diameter horseshoe-shaped pile of dirt around the nest entrance.

Usually, the wasps nest in already disturbed soil, or loose, sandy soil and are not a problem in thick, well-maintained lawns. That said, female wasps are solitary and non-aggressive--while they can sting, they rarely do. Male cicada killers are more aggressive than their female counterparts, but are unable to sting.

If you want to learn more about these creatures, you have to check out this hilarious blog post by a man in Massachusetts who observes a population at his office every year.