Renovate Your Lawn

A renovation after the grass has been killed.

I am so sorry I didn't post yesterday! I am new to this blogging thing, so bear with me as I work it all out.

On to the topic of the day--seeding your lawn. It is a little early to seed now (much too hot), but before you know it, it will be labor day and prime seeding time.

So...why the post now?

If you are TOTALLY renovating your lawn, now is the time to start, believe it or not. By total renovation, I mean you are killing your existing lawn and planting a brand-spanking new one. If you are attempting to rid yourself of a Zoysia or Bermuda lawn, get on a good watering schedule and apply a product containing Glyphosate (such as Roundup) to the entire area to be seeded within the next week or two. (Why water? Because actively growing grass will take in Glyphosate better.) It will probably take a few treatments to kill the grass, which is why you need to start early.

Here is a great how-to on renovating a lawn from Colorado State University:

How to Renovate a Lawn

Follow these steps to renovate a lawn.

1. Kill existing grass and weeds using a non-selective herbicide. The most effective products contain glyphosate.
2. Glyphosate is only effective on actively growing grass and weeds, so the area should be well-irrigated to encourage plant growth before applying the herbicide.
3. Allow the spray to dry for one day following application. Resume watering for 10 days. Spot spray areas or weeds that are still green.
4. When the existing vegetation is dead, mow the site to 1/2 inch and remove the debris by hand raking or using the bagging unit on your lawn mower.
5. If there is an existing thatch layer (a matted layer of organic matter on the soil surface) thicker than 1 inch, remove it from the lawn (a sod cutter makes thatch removal easier).
6. A thatch layer less than 1 inch is okay, but the soil must be exposed.
• Core cultivating provides an excellent seed germination environment. Holes should be 1 to 3 inches deep and 2 inches apart in all directions.
• A power rake, set deep enough to expose the soil, can also be run over the lawn in two different directions. Remove loose debris by raking or using a bagging unit attached to your lawn mower.
7. Spread seed on exposed soil to allow for good seed to soil contact.
8. Seed at the label’s recommended rate with a drop spreader in two different directions. Follow with a light raking to work the seed into the soil. Adding topsoil or sand after seeding is NOT recommended.

You will have an awesome lawn in no time...even if your neighbors think you have no knack for lawn care when your grass "dies" in July!

***This post is specific to the transition zone between zones 5 and 6. For specific instructions on how to kill out lawns outside this area, leave a comment and I will provide guidelines for you.***